lördag 1 mars 2008

Epilogue.


We have now been home for a month, and have settled into daily life in Stockholm, with both Lily and Alice attending the day care center. Emily has quickly been thrust into the wonderful world of Veolia, and has reconnected with friends and family. The gray winter days are rapidly becoming longer and lighter, mercifully phasing the Frigyes familyinto an early spring.
Is it possible to summarize the past year of Bohemian life? Probably not already. However, for me personally, as time passes I think the year will stand out as a turning point in life - a time during which I could see my professional life from the outside, and prepare myself for future challenges, to dispose my time more efficiently, be less afraid of losing and to focus on things that matter. Our month in the archipelago, our drive to Italy and Switzerland, and our days by the sea at Pampatar, Venezuela and the soft atmosphere in the lush hills of Tobago will stay in our memories.
Thanks to all of you who took part of this year, commented on this blog or in other ways crossed our path of journey.

lördag 2 februari 2008

The last islands



Back in Stockholm, we spent two days at the inn "af Chapman" at the island Skeppsholmen in Stockholm city, since access to our flat was not granted us until the 31st of January. Alice was first amused, confused and amazed by the cold environment, but the second day she turned downright disgusted. Back in the flat in the island of Kungsholmen, she did seem to recognize the environment, at least she found her old cart, and enjoyed several rounds with it. It was seven months since we left our flat, so we do feel slightly alien. We borrowed a car and went to inspect our boat, and were lucky to yet again see the dear sights of MacDonalds in Haninge and Biltema.
And a thin layer of snow was actually covering the soil.
Not enough to make a snowball, Lily found, but nevertheless. Snow. You can´t get that in the West Indies.

onsdag 30 januari 2008

New York


We left Trinidad Monday at noon and flew to New York. JFK Airport was a monster as usual, abusive, stressful and we happened to land behind a megajet from El Al with thousands of israelis in front of us in the queue. It took us 2 hrs to pass customs, of course we had gotten the wrong forms. And myself, in a lapse of mind, wrote that I had visited both Venezuela and Cuba, instead of Venezuela and Trinidad & Tobago.
The customs police took an immediate an keen interest. I had to correct my error.
- Why did you go to Venezuela then?
- Er, the sun...
- What?
- Carribean sun.
- I cant hear you.
- Sun! SUN! You know the yellow thing above. Warm.

Anyway, after all the checkpoints (shoes off), when we came to the gate, Lily fell asleep and slept for an hour and a half. And after being carried on the plane, she continued sleeping for another 7,5 hours and woke up when we approached Frankfurt.

söndag 27 januari 2008

A final, vibrant day in Trinidad




It´s pre-carnival time in Port of Spain. Which means the carnival has already started. Prominent steel pan bands compete for the publics attention around Queens Park Savannah (the field and former plantation that is also recorded in Guinness Book of Records as the worlds biggest roundabout). After returning from low key Tobago today we walked around listening to the massive and almost hypnotic sounds of the bands that swayed the warm evening air with walls of sound. As dusk approached we walked back to our final hotel night in the Carribbean with the music fading towards the skies above the Savannah.
It was a fine, soft day. But a day in which we, more than ever, were burdoned of the news and knowledge about the terrible situation in Kenya, the land of Emilys family. Our thoughts are with you.

And now for some angry moments...

Just click on the play button and watch,


fredag 25 januari 2008

Leaving the lush nature









Tobago is the island you want to go to if you think you want to go to Jamaica. Almost no violence or crime, very friendly people (who don' t constantly try to trick tourists for money), plus reggae music coming from every other village corner and car stereo. Young people actually only listen to soca and calypso around carnival time, and the thumping car stereos are even during that time dominated by reggae. But very much of Tobagos soul is about serene and inspiring nature, that has something very magical about it. However, we have now left nature and moved to the Crown Point area, where we have heard quite a lot of Swedish on the walkways. Here are some snaps that might convey some of the atmosphere of the islands more rural parts.

onsdag 23 januari 2008

Taking care of a stranger

While I went in to an Internet cafe the other day, Emily sat down with the children on a raised pavement outside. After a couple a minutes a Tobagonian man came out and offered her ten dollars, since he thought she was alone with the children. People are considerate here. Period.

måndag 21 januari 2008

Holidays - at last!

The view from our room at the Tropikist.


On Thursday we will commence our three days of holidays by moving to the Tropikist hotel in the touristy but friendly area of Crown Point. I know this may make some of you laugh your nostrils off - I mean, after all, haven't we been on a holiday for half a year now, constantly lounging in various spots around the world? Well actually, daily life has been rather, er...normal mostly. We live on a budget. We have no car, making it necessary to walk down to the local shop in the tropical sun every day. We cook for a family, clean the house and wash clothes. Tobago may be considered a paradise island, but paradise is a lifestyle, not a location. So now we will stop washing clothes, cooking, cleaning and walking in the sun for half a week and really lime, as they say here in T&T.

torsdag 17 januari 2008

Swimming with sharks

We went out with a boat to the reefs outside Tobago the other day. The life under water and the spectre of colours on the fish is truly amazing. While I was out swimming I was fortunate to be shown a real shark by the tour guide. A more than a meter long, so called sun shark was sleeping at the reef bottom two meters underneath the surface. Was he dangerous? I have no idea, google it yourself.
Coming weekend we look forward to several events. On Saturday night there is a brass music event in Plymouth, and on Sunday the village house a harvest festival, when all homes are supposed to be open to visitors. We have immersed in the village life a lot better here than in Pampatar, which of course is great.

torsdag 10 januari 2008

Beaches, birds and long breakfasts

People in Tobago are both considerate and social, and we have made some new friends amongst our neighbours: Dexter (who has built his own house in front of ours) and his wife Emris and their children. We have also spent a nice evening with our neighbour Michael. When we walk the street of Bethesda, most people greet us. However, our many months of travel has also begun to make us long for old friends, relatives - the social fabric of everyday life. It was good news when I just recieved the note that both Lily and Alice have been accepted to the Serafen daycare center in Stockholm from the end of February. She needs that. We will stay for another two weeks in Bethesda, and after that spend three days in hotel Tropikist at Crown Point, Tobago, overlooking the sea, and with a huge serpentine formed pool on the premises. We want to end this year in style, with the infinite sea view that we loved so much in Pampatar. Then, on the 27th, we will return by ferry to Trinidad and stay over night in Alicias Guest house, with a last dip in the jacuzzi and a last visit to our favourite restaurant and waiter, Christopher at The Normandie, before taking the airplane back to Sweden the 28th via New York and Frankfurt. But for another fortnight we will continue our long breakfasts on the porch here in Tobago, where hummingbirds occationally pay a visit, the beach life (yes, the girls still love it) and small excursions around the island.

onsdag 2 januari 2008

New Year in Tobago

So we are here. The final carribbean destination for our family: Tobago, a classical tropical paradise island. Charming people, laid back atmosphere, secluded beaches and wuthering heights, low crime rate and with calypso, soca and jamaican reggae streaming from every other house. We have rented a house in Bethesda, Plymouth, ten minutes walk from the bird watchers luxury resort and beach of Arnos Vale. We live on the first floor of a separate house, in a garden covered with tropical fruits and banana plants.
On clear days it is possible to see to the next island Grenada when you wander the lush hills of the north coast. Our village is inhabitated by average Tobagonians, with some houses on the hills strikingly wealthy, others small, run down and simple. The area around Plymouth used to be a Latvian (Courland) colony in the 17th century and a horrible concrete memorial statue in late Soviet style have been erected overviewing the beatiful Courland Bay. The whole island breathes of history, lot least the painful and degrading memories of slavery. Plantations have been transformed into golf courses and parks, but the beautiful surrounding also convey notes of past numerous years of deplorable sorrows.
New mobile phone if you want to call: 001868 766 05 16.

söndag 30 december 2007

The tiger and the Lily

When we went to the Trinidad Zoo, Lily didn´t want to get too close to the tiger. This is how she voiced her concern when Emily approached the cage with the trolley. Click on the film, watch and listen. Mii, mii, miii!


Reflections on Venezuela


A week after having left Venezuela, some thoughts have resurfaced. Thoughts that briefly might have fluttered up in my conscience those many late evenings I spent sitting in the white living room Pampatar, with a glistening glass of aged Gran Kazike-rhum in my hand, watching a DVD on the computer before slowly and blissfully passing out on the couch. Thoughts on things that cripples Venezuela , and whether they can be traced to peoples minds, culture, politics or what. I really don´t know. But the question bears importance for many underdeveleped countries.
Take for instance the maintanence of supermarkets. The chinese owns Venezuelas small local supermarkets, and they are well kept, with the goods carefully stapled, prices pen-marked on every single item and goods regularly cleaned with a cloth. Things are different in the venezuelan-owned outlets. Take Rattan, who has three giant and supposedly high class supermarkets on Margarita Island. They are relatively expensive, and target a wealthy customer market. But around one third of the goods in the shops dont have any prices marked. This has several effects. For every single unmarked item, customers have to look for one of the few scattered computer code-readers in the shops, which requires a lot of walking and prolongs the shopping tour a lot. But some clients don´t do that. They stack up the goods they want to buy, plus alternative goods on their cart and when they get to the cashier they watch the prices register, and every item that is to costly (some imported items are very expensive) they tell the cashier to leave it on the side (normally after a brief discussion). Each cashier often have 3-4 people serving the customer. As you can understand, the numerous staff also leads to complex chains of contacts and discussion during the handling of every customer. And yes, queues do get very long and slow. If you are used to normal rational handling, it is painful to watch.
When Abukar came to Margarita, we went to Rattan and happened to be standing in the aisle of chocolates (surprise), where one of the staff folded some boxes. It was an aisle where none of the maybe hundred items on the shelves had any prices, and Abukar suggested we ask her why.
- Well, this is christmas season and we have been moving around things in the shops have not had time to mark up all the goods, she answered.
Her answer was an apparent lie (I came in early October and it things looked exactly the same then), but it did actually reveal an ambition that the shop items should be marked. But it just doesn´t happen. Employees do their work, bosses boss, everybody live their life and dont get hung up on things that some people claim must be done. Its all good, take it easy, the world wont crumble. Personally, I get annoyed to look at the multiplicatory bad effects of such negligence, especially since I realize that this way of thinking, or rather, not doing, perpetrates the whole society, deteriorating everyday life for everyone. It applies to all parts of infrastructure, from pavements, walls, electricity, water, plumbing etc. And I am not fussy about order. My philosophy: You DON´T have to do things properly from the start. But you have to do them properly ENOUGH from the start, not to get to do much more work later.
There is a sign in our bathroom here in Trinidad, that says in Spanish: "Throw toilet paper in the toilet, not the paper basket."
Why? Because Venezuelas plumbing is made with such an inferior quality and dimensions, that if you throw toilet paper in the toilet, it clogs and flood the floor. Hence, in Venezuela, you learn to throw toilet paper in a adjacent paper basket. (Yes - smelly.) Of course, when going abroad, many venezuelans continue with this habit from a dysfunctional plumbing system.


torsdag 27 december 2007

Calypso Christmas















We had our Christmas smorgasbord at the Trinidad Hilton, situated just 500 meters from our more modest hotel, and shared the supper with an French-Canadian couple, who live and work in French Guyana. It was a soft evening in a exclusive environment. The morning after, Lily and I playing in the jacuzzi, shaded by a mango tree, in the lush caribbean hotel garden, with the hills of St Ann behind us. All of a sudden a group of big and croaking parrots landed in the tree, making a racket chopping at the mangoes and dropping small branches in the jacuzzi. It was the first time I experienced wild parrots. Just as the case is with monkeys, who Emily and I met in Gibraltar during our honeymoon, these animals appear rather rude and intrusive when met in their natural habitat.
Coming from Venezuela, this is the first time I have travelled from an ethnically white country to an ethnically black, where the white country is the poor, messy country, and the black is the rich and formal. Here, the white guest workers are the ones who look worn, poor and frayed as they hang around the docks of Chaguaramas waiting for the Venezuela ferry, and the black personal in smart dresses urge them to fill in the proper forms. Basically Trinidad is all that a country like Kenya could be. And Port of Spain is a very pleasant city, reasonably safe, wealthy and with a nice friendly atmosphere in a colonial surrounding. Hectic and professional but relaxed and smiling at the same time. For Christmas Day, we were invited to Christmas dinner at some adventists, Rochelle and her family, that Emily met in church. Nice.

We have also been to the zoo, and saw the worlds biggest rat, the capybara, with almost the size and look of a lion, (well I did say almost) and spider-monkeys, with their cool attitudes. And then, to top it all off, I happened to stumble upon the sign that prohibits signs.

torsdag 20 december 2007

Trinidad & Tobago


Today, we flew over from Isla Margarita to Port of Spain, Trinidad & Tobago. Its another world, a former British colony, richer, cleaner and with better roads than Venezuela. And a lot more expensive. We stay in Alicias Guesthouse, Port of Spain, for ten days, with a lush garden, swimming pool, jacuzzi and wireless broadband access in our rooms. However, no view whatsoever, and the merits of the kitchen are debatable. A letter from grandma Birgitta awaited us, it arrived in ten days. In comparison, her efforts in sending a letter to us in Venezuela did not bear fruit at all, the country is simply too unsystematic.
On the airport in Porlamar, we bought Lily a talking Chavez doll, complete with his howling revolutionary rethoric when you press a button on his back. Sweet. She insisted in taking off his clothes. I appealed to her to at least let him keep his red beret on.

onsdag 19 december 2007

Triumphant farewell to Venezuela




During the Christmas season Isla Margaritas population will increase with almost 400.000 vacationers. The streets and shops are simmering. Climate is nice, around 25 degrees centigrade and occational showers of rain. However, the Frigyes family is going the other way. Tomorrow we will leave both the island and Venezuela, to stay for ten days at the hotel Alicias House, Port of Spain, Trinidad. So that´s where we will spend Christmas. For three days, we have had our friend from Sweden staying with us in Pampatar: Abukar. He studies spanish here for some weeks, and will inherit our telephone number.
Our last day in Venezuela turned out triumphantly for me. I won a dancing contest! I spite of fierce competicion from several latin lovers. How it came about? Well we decided to spend our last day at "Parque el Agua", a watertheme-park, with lots of games, slides, waterfalls etc. for the young. And during an activity by the giant jacuzzi I was forced to participate in a dancing competition against four other male specimens. I improvised a mix of Chavez body moves and pointing and waving to the audience with winding pelvis movements (oh yes, utterly embarrasing!), and bold native dance steps. And the audience was bewildered by my ruthless attitude and innovative blend and cheeringly chose me as the male dance winner. I recieved a diploma.

Click the image, and a little clip of Lily playing in Sambil will start roll (if you are lucky and have decent broadband access).

torsdag 13 december 2007

Informal behaviour

When we went to a restaurant the other day it was the first time I experienced the a waiter actually clipping his fingernails while taking the order. A prime example of venezuelan "informal" behaviour, however admittedly of a rather less inspiring kind. Still, the lack of professionalism is also what makes the people charming and open. People never hesitate to get personal, to share their views. They are easy to talk to, on buses, beaches, in shops. In a way it also makes you feel more secure, they would help you if something happened. Sometimes the informalism is rather disturbing. Like when I in the hospital in November saw a male and a female nurse kissing and cuddling each other in the corridor. Or the police officer that approached Jonas in full uniform, asking if he wanted to change dollars (on the black market). Coming back to the waiter at the restaurant, it could have been worse.
He could have been clipping his toenails.

Look who´s talking



Alice. Well not really talking. But she does repeat simple words. And occationally she uses her words connected to things. And she continuously babbles, varying her intonation, and points on different things as to make it clear that she has firm views on specific topics. Lily was very slow in learning to walk but quick in language, Alice was quick with walking but is slow with words. She says "papa" clearly.
What else is new? Well apart from Jonas, we have had another Swedish visit, Andreas (grandson of mothers friend Dorrit) and his friend Madeleine, who are on a surfer vacation on Playa El Yaque. They came over to our place, for a curry, and on a subsequent very windy day we visited their beach, and were lucky to see the world champion in freestyle wind surfing showing off his tricks.

Christmas spirit with Hugo the poet


Yesterday morning on the state television, president Chavez in a black suit and tie was reciting poems with the support of a acoustic guitar player. Am I dreaming or what? Anyway, it may be construed as a way of promoting the true Christmas spirit in Venezuela. And Christmas is close, with lots of Caracas-people coming to the island every day. Luckily they have mounted a neon christmas tree outside our window.
Chavez, by the way, has now also established a formal collective greeting to be used by the military: "Fatherland, socialism or death". Will somebody pinch my arm.

torsdag 6 december 2007

Familiar greetings

We have a neighbourhood friend and taxi driver called Jail. I must admit I enjoy raising my right hand towards him and shouting "Heil" when I see him on the street. But it turns out I am anly making a fool out of myself. Today I learned that he for one pronounces the J in his name with an English J-sound and not the normal spanish h-like jota-sound.